Turnberry - Beyond Golf
When most people think of Turnberry, they immediately think of golf. And not just any kind of golf, but world-renowned, bucket-list golf. The history of golf at Turnberry spans back to 1901 when the first man-made links were designed and opened with the clubhouse following shortly thereafter. As enticing as it is to talk about the fascinating history of the resort, we will save that for another day. Today we will go back much, much further than 1901.
Turnberry Castle
As an American, I have a deep appreciation and admiration for anything of antiquity. From the moment I stepped foot in Scotland, I knew that it was a very special place. There is such a sense of history here and it is an integral part of Scottish culture, tradition, and architecture. We are reminded of it daily as we drive past ruins and restored castles, hear the sound of bagpipes, or experience the fun of Ceilidh dancing at a Scottish wedding or festival.
Near Turnberry Lighthouse, overlooking the sea, you will find what remains of what was once a vast fortress, Turnberry Castle. By whom or exactly when the castle was built remains a mystery. In the late 13th century, the castle belonged to the widowed Countess of Carrick. According to medieval legend, she held a visiting knight, Robert de Brus, captive until he agreed to marry her. In 1271 they married and the went on to have a son, "Robert the Bruce", who later became known as the King of Scots. While it is unknown whether Robert the Bruce was actually born at Turnberry Castle, it is known is that he spent his childhood there and when young Robert was just 12 years old, several Scottish barons secretly met at the castle in support of him becoming the rightful successor to the crown. The English eventually gained control of the castle and in 1307, Robert tried to reclaim the castle from them which marked the beginning of a long battle. And just 3 years later, he ordered Turnberry Castle to be destroyed in order to prevent it from falling into the hands of the English once again. Sadly, all that remains are the cellars and lower vaults.
Turnberry Lighthouse
Built in what was once the moat of Turnberry Castle, stands the Turnberry Lighthouse. At 24-metres high, this iconic structure has marked this coastline for 150 years. This location for the lighthouse was chosen to prevent shipwrecks caused by nearby Bristo Rock which were prevalent at the time. The first light was lit 30 August 1873.
As of 2016, the lighthouse has been home to the Turnberry Golf halfway house and a Turnberry Hotel luxury 2-bedroom suite. Visitors can take in spectacular views of Arran, Ailsa Craig, and passing ships while enjoying a coffee & light snack.
For Visitors:
The Turnberry Castle ruins and Lighthouse are about a 30-40 minute walk from Carlyon Lodge. Alternatively, guests can drive and park at the small carpark located just past the Turnberry Golf Clubhouse & practice area (not the dirt track which is for the golf course maintenance...keep going). From the car park, it's about a 20 minute walk. Please mind the golfers as they tee off at various holes along the path and note that dogs should be on leads.
References:
1. https://www.nlb.org.uk/lightho...
2. https://www.turnberry.co.uk/
3. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/...
Photos: Julie Morrison
Kirkoswald - More Than Meets The Eye
About 10 minutes northeast of Turnberry lies the small village of Kirkoswald. In fact, you likely drove through it on your way to Carlyon Lodge. I was initially interested in mentioning Kirkoswald because of its modern attractions, but as I began researching the village, I quickly stumbled upon its rich history. Like many villages in Scotland, it has its own story to tell. (And on a side note, my husband grew up here - in the old Manse house - and spent his first several years of primary school in the old village school.)
Firstly, Kirkoswald gets its name from the word kirk (church), dedicated to Oswald of Northumbria who was said to have won an important battle here in the 7th century. Oswald was the king of Northumbria from 634 until his death and was a revered saint for his work spreading Christianity. The old kirk was built in 1244 and houses the baptismal font of Robert the Bruce. It kirk lies in ruin now, but can easily be viewed when visiting the village (see photos below).
Moving forward in time, we arrive at 1775 when a budding poet of just 16 spends a summer visiting his maternal grandparents, The Brouns, learning mathematics at the local school. It is here where Scotland’s poet, Robert “Rabbie” Burns, was inspired to write one of his most famous works, Tam O Shanter, based on some of the local characters - Douglas Graham, John Davidson, and John Davidson. Douglas Graham rented a farm called Shanter became Tam O Shanter, John Davidson, owner of the Cottage and the local Souter (Shoemaker), became Souter Johnnie, and Jean Kennedy, who ran Kirkton Inn, became Kirkton Jean.
During the time of Rabbie Burns, coastal villages like Kirkoswald were well-known for smuggling and Douglas Graham/Tam o Shanter was said to have been a smuggler. The government had imposed heavy taxes on imported goods like tea, gin, brandy, and textiles during that time. But we will save that part of history for another day!
Today, you can find the graves of Rabbie Burns’ relatives along with Douglas Graham, John Davidson, and Jean Kennedy in the Auld Kirk cemetery. There is a plaque on the gate that shows where each historic grave is situated. Across the road you can find what was once the Kirkton Inn and the Shanter Inn which were rebuilt in 2007. The Kirkton Inn is now a shop and the Shanter Inn is now Souters Inn, which has fantastic food and is definitely worth a visit. It is certainly a local favourite and a regular haunt for our family. You can also visit Souter Johnnie's Cottage, which is now a museum (temporarily closed).
Another local attraction, A.D. Rattray's Whisky Experience, is definitely worth a visit as well. Located within the beautifully renovated old village school, this little gem offers a wide range of whisky, wine, beer, gin, rum, gifts and Scottish fare. They also have 2 single malt casks “on tap” where you can have a bottle filled, sealed in wax, and personalised with your hand-written label. It is highly unlikely that you will leave this shop empty-handed!
Kirkland's House and Garden is also a great shop to visit. They offer a selection of lovely home & garden wares.
Photos:
References:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/...
https://www.ayrshirescotland.c...
Photos: Julie Morrison
Culzean Castle
If you are from Scotland, you can skip ahead to the next paragraph. For the rest of you, it is quite possible that you will mispronounce the name of this castle, so I’m here to help. As an American, I pronounced this as kul-zeen when I first read the name. Baffling as it may be, it is actually pronounced Kul-ane or Kuh-lane, although this becomes a bit less of a mystery once you read on.
Culzean is one of my favorite places in Scotland. And I am not alone as it has become one of Sctoland’s top destinations. Perched atop 150ft cliffs overlooking the Firth of Clyde, it is truly magical! We’ve been there countless times, but we discover something new every time we visit. The castle itself is postcard perfect and the grounds are incredible no matter what season it is. From hidden beaches and caves to walled gardens and restored buildings, get ready to feel transported back in time. It isn’t difficult to imagine what once was because the National Trust has done an amazing job restoring and expanding this site. There is absolutely something for everyone here.
A Wee Bit of History
Culzean castle was rebuilt in phases between 1777 and 1792 for the 10th Earl of Cassilis, David Kennedy, of clan Kennedy. However, the origins of the castle likely date back to the late 1300’s when the building was of a much simpler design. This was referred to in the 1400’s as House of Cove or Coiff Castle most likely in reference to the caves in the cliffs below the castle. By the 1600’s it was referred to as Cullean Castle and the current spelling of Culzean Castle came into fashion in the 1700’s.
In 1945, the Kennedy family gave the castle and its grounds to the National Trust of Scotland and stipulated that the top floor apartment be given to Dwight D Eisenhower in recognition for his role as Supreme Commander of the Allied Forces during the Second World War. He subsequently stayed there four times, including once while he was President of the United States.
In 2011, Culzean Castle reopened after a large refurbishment funded by a gift in the will of American millionaire William Lindsay to the National Trust of Scotland. Lindsay had reportedly never visited Scotland, but had requested that a large percentage of his $4 million dollar donation go towards Culzean Castle due to its connection with Eisenhower.
Culzean Castle is said to be haunted by at least seven ghosts including a piper and a servant girl and was featured in an episode of Britain's Most Haunted.
Things to Do
When you enter the park, you will be given a map of the grounds. Depending on what you are interested in and how much you enjoy walking, you can spend an entire afternoon here. Here are some highlights:
The Adventure Cove (children’s play park) is located at the end of the park
Beach Access - There are several points that you will see on the map to access the beaches. The one closest to the Adventure Cove is great for children and is a short walk from there.
Swan Pond - Also located near the Adventure Cove
Walled Garden - Absolutely stunning grounds in the spring and autumn
The Gruffalo Trail - Located adjacent to the Walled Garden
Culzean Castle - Tour the castle or simply walk the beautiful grounds. Amazing photo opportunities!
Cafes are located on each end of the park
Trails are located between the 2 ends of the park and other areas as well - See the map provided at the entry gate
For Visitors:
Entry Prices: https://www.nts.org.uk/visit/p...
Hours: https://www.nts.org.uk/visit/p...
Photos:
Links/References:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/...
https://www.nts.org.uk/visit/p...
https://www.visitscotland.com/...
https://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/maidens/culzeancastle/index.html
https://www.nts.org.uk/visit/p...
Photos: Julie Morrison